You installed hydronic underfloor heating for that even, draft-free warmth. But maybe your utility bills are higher than expected, or some rooms never hit the right temperature. That’s more common than you’d think. After working with dozens of systems, I’ve collected 15 specific adjustments that actually change performance. These aren’t generic suggestions – each one has a measurable impact on fuel use, heat output, or room comfort.
The thermostat you choose can make or break efficiency. The Aube by Honeywell Home TH135-01-B/U is a non-programmable model built for hydronic systems. It handles 2-amp inductive loads and offers a remote input for phone-based temperature changes (requires separate controller). No fancy touchscreen, no Wi-Fi, but it’s dead reliable. For systems where you just want set-and-forget control, that simplicity cuts cost and avoids programming headaches.
Honeywell
Aube by Honeywell Home TH135-01-B/U Hydronic Heating…
- Compatible with hydronic floor heating and central heating; also compatible with electric heat applications using a relay (see acc…
- 2-Ampere (inductive) 24-Volt R, W Millivolt compatible
- Remote input enables change of temperature modes by phone (Telephone controller required - Aube by Honeywell CT240)
1. Insulation and Floor Construction
Heat loss through the subfloor is your biggest enemy. Fixing it first makes every other adjustment work better.
- Add rigid foam under the slab. For new builds, R-10 minimum. For retrofits, consider 1-inch extruded polystyrene over the existing slab before laying new pipe. You’ll lose less heat to the ground.
- Install edge insulation strips. Concrete slabs wick heat to foundation walls. A 1-inch foam strip around the perimeter cuts that transfer. Cheap and effective.
- Use the correct pipe spacing. 6 to 8 inches on center is standard. Wider spacing (12 inches) can work for mild climates but creates cold spots in colder areas. Measure your room’s heat loss before deciding.
- Layer thermal mass wisely. A 2-inch gypcrete or concrete topping above the pipes stores heat and smooths temperature swings. Thinner pours react faster but lose heat quicker. Match thickness to your boiler’s output.
For more detail on underfloor materials, check this guide on insulation materials for hydronic systems.
2. Water Temperature and Flow Rate
Hydronic floors run best at lower water temperatures than radiators. Many installers set them too hot, wasting fuel.
- Install outdoor reset controls. These adjust supply water temperature based on outdoor air. On a 40°F day you might send 100°F water; on a 10°F day you’d need 130°F. That’s 20-30% fuel savings compared to a fixed high temperature.
- Set the maximum supply temp to 130°F. Most floors don’t need more. Higher temps create uncomfortable surface heat and waste energy. If your system can’t maintain comfort at 130°F, you likely need more pipe coverage or better insulation.
- Balance manifold flow rates. Use flow meters on each loop. A 300-foot loop needs about 0.6 GPM, a 200-foot loop 0.9 GPM. Adjust valves until flow matches loop length. Warm spots? Close the valve slightly on that loop.
- Match pump speed to demand. Oversized circulators push too much water, causing noise and wasted electricity. A Grundfos Alpha or Wilo Stratos auto-adapting pump can save 50-70% of pump power. Fixed-speed pumps should be set to the lowest speed that still heats the farthest loop.
3. Controls and Scheduling
How you manage temperature determines how much fuel you burn. Here’s where the Aube thermostat fits in – simple control without complexity.
- Zone each living area with its own thermostat. A single zone for the whole house forces you to heat unused rooms. Bedrooms at 62°F, living rooms at 68°F – that’s a 15% fuel reduction. The Aube TH135 works with multiple zones if you wire individual units.
- Use a setback schedule if you’re away. Non-programmable thermostats like the Aube don’t have schedules. That’s fine if you work from home or prefer manual control. But if you leave for 8 hours, a programmable thermostat (or the Aube plus a phone controller) can drop temps 5°F and save 5-10%.
- Add a floor temperature sensor. Some thermostats allow a separate sensor to limit floor surface temp to 85°F. That prevents overheating and reduces cycling. The Aube doesn’t include one, so for tight control consider a model that does.
- Wire remote inputs for out-of-sight control. The Aube’s remote input lets you connect a telephone controller (model CT240) or timer. You can call home to turn heat down before a trip. It’s a low-tech way to achieve setbacks without a smart thermostat.
For more on thermostats and zoning, see this roundup of control devices for hydronic systems.
| Control Type | Scheduling | Remote Access | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Non-programmable (e.g., Aube TH135) | None – manual only | Via telephone add-on | Low | Simple systems, rental properties |
| Programmable electronic | 2-4 setback periods daily | No (unless Wi-Fi) | Medium | Homes with consistent schedules |
| Smart thermostat (Wi-Fi) | Geo-fencing, adaptive | Yes – app, voice | High | Tech-savvy owners, variable occupancy |
4. Maintenance and System Balancing
Even a well-designed system drifts over time. Regular checks keep efficiency from slipping.
- Purge air from the loops annually. Trapped air blocks water flow, causing cold zones. Each manifold has air bleeds. Open them with a hose attached until water runs steady with no bubbles. Do this at start of heating season.
- Flush the system every 3-5 years. Sludge and debris collect in pipe elbows. A flush with a cleaning agent (like Fernox F1) restores flow. Skip this and you’ll slowly lose heat transfer.
- Check the expansion tank pressure. A waterlogged tank causes pressure swings that waste energy. Press the air valve – it should read 12-15 psi. If water comes out, the tank bladder is bad. Replace it.
If you’re comparing hydronic to electric floor heat, see this analysis of hydronic vs electric radiant options.
Frequently Asked Questions
What temperature should I set for hydronic underfloor heating?
Supply water temperature should be 100°F to 130°F depending on outdoor conditions. Floor surface temperature should stay under 85°F for comfort. Use an outdoor reset controller to adjust automatically.
How often should I bleed air from the system?
At the start of each heating season and any time you open the system for repairs. If you hear gurgling sounds from the manifold, bleed immediately. Trapped air reduces heat output by up to 20%.
Can I use a single thermostat for multiple zones?
Technically yes, but you’ll lose efficiency. One thermostat controls only the zone where it’s located. Other rooms will overheat or underheat. Install individual thermostats for each zone – the Aube TH135 works as a simple per-zone option.
Does adding insulation under the floor reduce heating costs?
Absolutely. Without under-floor insulation, heat conducts downward. In a slab-on-grade, R-10 foam can cut heat loss to ground by 80%. For raised floors, R-13 batts between joists prevents cold crawlspace air from stealing heat. Payback is usually 2-4 years.
Is it better to run the boiler continuously or cycle it?
Hydronic floors have high thermal mass, so continuous low output is more efficient than on-off cycling. That’s why outdoor reset is key – it modulates water temperature to match heat loss. Cycling wastes energy reheating the slab. If your boiler short-cycles, increase the minimum run time setting or add a buffer tank.
What to Focus on First
- Upgrade under-slab insulation to R-10 or better before worrying about controls.
- Install outdoor reset to drop water temperature on mild days – single biggest fuel saver.
- Balance manifold flow with a meter so each loop gets the right flow.
- Zone the house and put a thermostat like the Aube TH135 in each zone.
- Set pump to the lowest speed that still delivers heat to the longest loop.
- Purge air at start of season and flush the system every 3-5 years.
- If you add a programmable or smart thermostat, make sure it has a floor sensor option to prevent overheating.
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